Wednesday, August 31, 2011

邂逅 Super Legend, Soul Arch, Kemp Aaberg. 




Oh, My God, I finally met you, my super idol, Kemp Aaberg.


I was really inspired of your the legendary "Soul Arch" photo by John Severson.
Even I remember that our first SURFER Magazine in Japanese version's cover was your this photo.
I was one of the editorial member of this magazine.
And now, I made my own book of Soul Surfing . Please check those of my world.
I dedicate this book to you.
http://www.soulsurfersjourney.com/

Recently, I have been communicated many legends through FB and suddenly this name was came out in my Facebook, Kemp Aaberg as "People You May Know" and I checked his info, it said, he is UCSB graduated as same as me, and he was born in 1940.
He like Debussy and B.B. King as same as me.
And looked like legend surfer, and I had requested him as my friend.
He replied,
Kemp Aaberg,"hi hiroshi, welcome as facebook friends !!! Best, Kemp."

I get back to his Facebook and checked his photos, and realized that he is the person who had inspired me a lot by one photo when I had started to surf.
I had choice longboard because of this photo; this is the style, elegance, art, and this had everything of the beauty about surfing and what I aimed for.
After 35 years later I had seen the photo, my surfing is little bit progress but I am still looking for the same feelings what I had felt from this photo at 35 years ago. And now, even I met him and have been communicating.
I feel I have reached to the point more than I had been dreaming at the time.
This encounter and talking to him made me the strong conviction that for what have been doing for this 35 years and made me the feeling of great joy and gratitude.
And made me the gratitude for God, who is one able to bring me to this ultimate surf point to me.

When I send above massage to him, his first reply is,
Kemp Aaberg
Hi Hiroshi!! WOW, you compliment ME? you are the one who is making surfing
history and doing all your writing and books and activities---thanks so much
for your imput on surfing!!! Which is certainly more than sliding from point A to
point B---keep in touch and i will check out your soulsurfersjourney--very cool! K

We are now communicating through Facebook in my photo album, "Super Legend, Soul Arch, Kemp Aaberg".

And now, even his friends of Legend have been communicating with me, and some said about Kemp,
Mike E. DeGregorio 

"Kemp is a very modest guy whose character and surfing style influenced surfing in a very positive way..."
Ed Gross 

"KEmp is/was also one of the only guys who can do that move as part of his normal surfing without having to "stage" it or "platform" it. It's not a "plant and hold", it's part of a motion."

All of those people is not only super Legends, but also they are "Spirit of Surfing",..Indeed!

Mahalo,
Hiroshi








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