Thursday, June 30, 2011

Papa, you are crazy !


Papa, you are crazy !

There were a session between Sensei and the Pupil;



Paolo, Yes! As your saying, "We will have many falls and wipeout", my soul buradda, Michael Jordan said, "There were 1000 miss shots before he gain for the successes of one shot". 
And the beauty for we surfers are we have the place always able to return as your saying, "We will always get back on track and paddle into epic rides",..
We  hope we will make our own odyssey from those experiences and hope we could share this for our students as our legacy,…

Mara asked me, " Papa, are you really know Michael Jordan?"
I said, "Yes, I know him very well, but I am not sure he knows me or not,.."
And Mara said, "Did Michael really say that word?"
I replied, " I made it but I am sure he would say that if he is my real soul buradda,…"

"Papa, you are crazy !", somebody whispered to me and I recognized there are a young boy beside me.
I asked, "who are you? ". He said I am William Saroyan, 16 years old.

I want to be a crazy Papa than a great or a awesome Papa.
Am I crazy,…?

An Old Photo.
































One of Pinoy surfer tagged me from Japan, "Inamura is alive today . Drenched stoked!"
And he mentioned, "they have this very big old poster of a glassy wave down the point with title "Inamura Classic"
I replied," The poster was taken by my old friend, Taisuke Yokoyama, a great surfer and a photog,.."
"The photo was taken 45 years ago and he became a photog after this one shot."
"His profile photography is very famous and he take a photo of most great surfers not only Japan but also abroad.
I am great honor that I have some photos by him. It was 25 years ago.
Tai-chan,
I am sorry and I miss you !


I realized I have many worthy things which other people don't have and even cannot buy by money.
And my old life is never boring because I have so many things I could review in my drawer of memory. 
Mara don't say, "But you don't have money."

Blue Crush 2.

Blue Crush 2.







Blue Crush 2! But i dont think it will beat the first one. 







June 13 at 1:48am ·  ·  ·  · Remove Tag



Hiroshi Yokohama answered to her today,
Mara, wrong ! I saw 2 and 10 times better than 1, 
and I cry a lot though i didnt cry by 1,..

4 minutes ago · 







  • All surfer girls should watch this movie!







This is the beautiful odyssey of surfing and youth.







Hope you could make this kind of odyssey and




love story in your life! Then give to your daughter







some day as your legacy what the the Mother did







to the heroine in the movie.

















When I saw this movie, I feel so happy because







I am a part of this community and have being able







to create my own Odysseys. 







It is just because of Surfing,….








Surfing is beautiful,







Surfer is beautiful,








And life is so beautiful.




Life is lose and gain.


Life is lose and gain.
This morning I felt kind a depress because I can's find my smart bro and Amex Card.
Then I went Crispy Kreme for buying a coffee, the staff said " free for you today" and even he gave 2 donuts.
His name is King, he is always give me nice smile and even give me free donuts often.
Thanks for Da Smile and you call me "Sensei" every morning. 
This small things make me so happy and "Life is so beautiful".