Soul surfing, For the Expert of Solitude.

Soul Surfer, Master of Solitude. 

August 22 , 2010. 

I love those times when I paddle out to the point and surf alone early in the morning when it is still dark and nobody is there yet.

In the big ocean of silence, the only thing that faces me is the wave.

I am alone in this sea.

How silent it is.

How solitary it is.

Nothing to think of, just waiting for the wave and concentrating on the takeoff.

After the take off, I try to keep going towards the inside section, and focus on the tube so that I can get into the deep barrel.

Outside of the barrel are wild and strong waves, but inside is the world of absolute silence without any distractions.

The world of nothing.

The world of Zen.

And the only thing that I can see from inside the tube is the wall which is reflecting the golden color of the morning sun.

This moment might be only for a second.

But I feel like time stands still forever.

And this moment becomes one of my classic moments in my mind, forever eternalized in my memory.

I surf alone far from anyone else at my secret spot.

Nobody can see me.

Even if I have a great ride, no one is there to give me praise.

I don’t expect any of that.

I only expect highly spiritual things.

Which is connected to the method of Zen.

Nothing to think of.

Just concentrating on catching the wave.

Then comes the harmony created by the waves and nature.

At this very moment, I feel like I am stronger than I’ve ever been, like I am one with the universe.

And this is the moment where I feel that God is really near me.

The world of nothingness.

Only me and nature, the universe and God.

This is the surfing which I aim for.

And I call this "Soul Surfing".

The person who always searches for the ultimate high goes his own way and it cannot be coexistent with anyone else’s search. The person who wants to be happy should be solitary first of all.